WHEN Arthur took up his post as island administrator for Makin, an island in the Gilberts, he knew the best way to carry out his duties was to get to know islanders on their terms, not his. He set about learning their customs and religious beliefs, always speaking to them in the language of a friend rather than a researcher. He never indicated disapproval or revulsion over the things he learned.
Hearing that the northern-most island in the chain was where the spirits of the dead went, he determined to have a look for himself. Arthur asked several islander friends, those who told him about the place and the pathways leading to it, if they would serve as his guide. The answer was always the same: not a verbal “no,” but a look down and away, as if the mention of visiting the place brought fear and embarrassment to them.
Time went by and Arthur shelved his plan, but he never gave up. Finally, when the topic came up once more, he asked a local official if he would take him there, to the Place of the Dead. “Okay, I will take you,” he grudgingly agreed, “but you must follow my instructions.” Arthur agreed, not knowing what he was agreeing to, but this was the first time anyone had been willing to go there at all.
The day came to visit the north island. As the journey was taboo, they did not tell anyone where they were going, only said they were going fishing. Halfway to the north point, the islander picked up a sprouting coconut and told Arthur to carry it.
“It is heavy.” Arthur strained. “How far do I carry it?”
“All the way. We will plant it in the coconut grove to ease those spirits who will be upset by our visit.” Arthur did not argue, but as the journey carried on, he grew more and more sorry he agreed to the terms. The coconut was quite heavy and awkward with a large shoot growing out of it.
When the northern tip of the island became visible, the local man stopped and would go no further. Arthur had to finish the route on his own. He was instructed to plant the coconut sprout in the grove at the tip of the island, then he could look around. He was urged to hurry. The longer he stayed, the more trouble he could get into.
After planting the sprout, Arthur looked around the area, the most beautiful he had seen. The trees were full and lush, the flowers were startling, and the waves rhythmically lapped the sand in turquoise radiance. As he gazed northward, he noticed his shadow, since the sun was at his back, and he remembered what the islander said about how shadows carried people’s spirits to this place, their final physical waiting area before joining the next world.
Arthur rejoined the islander and the pair made their way home. Being a bit old and unsure of his abilities, Arthur asked the man if he would climb a tree and bring him a coconut to drink. Carrying the sprout all that way made him thirsty. The man said that, not only would he not stay there any longer, but he would walk several paces behind Arthur, so as not to be associated with this violator of taboos.
Then Arthur saw another man ahead. He had a distinct scar on the left side of his face, running from his jaw to his temple. When Arthur saw that he walked with a pronounced limp, he suspected he might not be able to climb a tree for a coconut, but still he asked.
“Hello there. May I trouble you for a coconut? I am willing to pay.” The man kept walking with his head down, as if he did not hear Arthur at all. In fact, he was quite rude and uncharacteristic for island men.
When Arthur returned to his office, he asked his partner if he had seen the man with the scar, to which he said he had not. “You did not see the man with the limp who walked right past us?”
“I saw no one during our entire journey.” The man said. “However, you must know that a man who had a long scar on his face and walked with a limp died in the village this morning.”
BC Cook, PhD taught history for over 20 years. He lived on Saipan and travels the Pacific but currently lives on the mainland U.S.
BC Cook
